TOPIC 2 : Wave transformation near shores: wave breaking and run-up laws
The life of a water wave can be divided into three stages: its creation, its propagation and its arrival on the shore. During this final stage, the wave is modified by the presence of the seabed and can break. Then, the water rises along the shore up to a certain height ("run-up").
My research activities are related to the transformation of water waves near the shores. My work is aimed at studying the run-up of these waves when breaking can occurs. Several kinds of waves are studied (sine waves, solitary waves, ...) for different configurations of the shore. The methodology adopted is essentially numerical. For this work, I develop YASPHAS, a numerical simulation program based on the Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) method. A part of this work is funded by the French National Research Agency (ANR) in the project TSUMOD (Modelization of tsunamis).