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Wave breaking and run-up

The life of a water wave can be divided into three stages: its creation, its propagation and its arrival on the shore. During this final stage, the wave is modified by the presence of the seabed and can break. Then, the water rises along the shore up to a certain height ("run-up").

Wave Breaking with YASPHAS

My research activities in this field have concerned the study of the transformation of the wave upon its arrival on the shore. It was mainly to determine the laws of run-up in the presence of breaking of wave. Several types of waves were studied (sine waves, solitary waves, ...) for different configurations of the shoreline. The methodology adopted is essentially numerical. In the framework of this work, YASPHAS, a numerical simulation program based on the Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) method has been developed and is still used today in my work. A part of this work was carried out within the framework of the ANR TSUMOD project (Tsunami Modeling, CATELL program).